Hi folks, I’d hoped to keep my blog going like last time but unfortunately I’m really struggling to keep phoned charged – couldn’t even take photos this afternoon. Im spending more time (and money) in cafes than I would like just trying to keep it charged up so going back to paper notes which may get put into blog at some point. If anyone wants to know where I am the tracker (hopefully) is still running.
For anyone that’s not heard of the cycling “Warm Showers”, it’s an organisation where people offer cycle tourists a place to sleep for free – it might be somewhere to pitch your tent in their garden, or a spot on the floor or sofa to sleep or they may even have a spare bed for you. It’s a bit hit or miss whether they can accommodate you or not as they may be cycle touring themselves or have other commitments on. But I got lucky last night and stayed with Alix and her partner Jean. They made me a fantastic vegi meal with produce from their garden and I got a bed for the night. We spent ages talking about cycling in general and the trips we have done. Alix and Jean have done lots of cycle tours in England and Wales but none in Scotland yet but hopefully they will make it my way sometime. Alix sent me on my way with tips for that days route and it was another beautiful day.
On one long section of cycle path that ran beside the road – not very exciting in terms of views but good for getting some miles under the belt – I could see someone ahead of me going super fast but definitely not on a bicycle. I thought they might be on inlinr roller skates but when I finally caught up with her (only because she had stopped) it turned out she was on roller skis and was part of Manchester cross country ski team and was out training.
I got a wee bit lost finding the cycle path that had been recommended from Poynton (a bit south of Stockport) and accidentally found the Brookside Garden Centre and their minature railway, and of course I had to give it a shot.
I then found the Middlewood Way cycle path that had been recommended, that took me from from Poynton to Macclesfield along what would once upon-a-time have been railway line – a beautiful stretch but with it being a Sunday busy at times with other cyclists, walkers and horse riders but would definitely recommend this route.
In Macclesfield I managed to make a rendezvous with Karen who was driving north from Dover in the campervan. And in the handy but not pretty setting of the Aldi carpark she made me a ham sandwich and I got rid of someone of my stuff from my overly full panniers for Karen to take North.
On to the final stretch to Waterhouses, which has another nice off road sections past Rudyard Lake and another minature (but significantly bigger than the last one) railway line. No time for playing on the trains this time but did stop for juice and an ice lolly – when she asked what I wanted and being toasty hot again, she understood what I meant when I asked for the iciest ice lolly.
Finally arriving at Emma’s I made good use of her washing machine and had another lovely meal including cauliflour & cheese with cauliflour grown in her allotment. I also drank the wee bottle of prosecco that my work colleagues had given me and I’d carried all the way from home.
Not sure how much sleep I got last night. I’d pitched the tent between a campervan and a car, hoping I’d get some protection from the wind – not a chance in hell – I’d already used more pegs than usual when I pitched the tent – maybe I should have used the guys ropes as well but not convinced they would have made a lot of difference. Despite wind and lack of sleep I’d definitely like to come back to this campsite and I got lucky – a family of 4 had been there for the week including the arrival of Storm Floris – they had a number of broken tent poles due to the storm – the following day they reduced there large family sized tent from 3 sections to 2 sections, taking out the broken poles and putting the intact poles in the usable section of the tent – the following night the rain came in and they woke up in a pool of water – rescued by the campsite owner they were given duvets to use while their sleeping bags dried and they were still there to tell the tale and having fun, while most would have packed it in.
View from campsite in the morning – threatening clouds but no rain came
Back on the road again – beautiful swooping downs and hellishly hard ups and then came to a road block – a jack knifed lorry completely blocking the road!
I asked the driver if I could get past – he didn’t speak English – pointing to indicate going round, he just gave me a shake of his head. I’d just come down a hill and was definitely not keen to go back up it and then “Heathcliff” arrived – “He is dark-skinned gipsy in aspect, in dress and manners a gentleman: that is, as much a gentleman as many a country squire: rather slovenly, perhaps, yet not looking amiss with his negligence, because he has an erect and handsome figure; and rather morose.” – dark skin and black eyes and handsome but definitely not morose, despite having to help sort out a jack knifed lorry on the way to his farm and now having to help me get past too. He confirms that I can’t get past due to a large drainage ditch but he heads uphill to get some wood to form a bridge so that he can carry the bike over for me – he returns, not long after, carry a large piece of sleeper. However I have had an alternative idea – would it be easier to go under the lorry? “Heathcliff” goes backwards supporting the front of the bike, I’ve got the back of the bike,we are both crouched as low as we can and I’m glad I’ve got my helmet on – we have to tip the bike slightly to one side but we all make it through – don’t think we ticked any of the health and safety boxes at all but I’m on my way again after saying thank you to a still smiling “Heathcliff”.
Route under the lorry.
The last time I cycled in Yorkshire I swore I would never do it again and now I’m repeating these thoughts. I want to come back but with hiking boots next time.
Today I’ve got to be in Manchester before 4.15pm as I have a ticket for The Lowry exhibition, I’ve also been offered a bed through the cycling “Warm Showers” website that night but I’m going hell of a slow and make the decision to cycle to Kendal and take the train from there to Manchester. Getting a ticket for me is easy but it’s too late notice to book Phil on but we are in luck as there are no other bikes on board and also the entrance of the train is level with the platform which makes it really easy to push Phil on (take note Scotrail). 90 minutes later I’m in Manchester and cycling along the canal tow path, listening to the tunes from the “party” canal boats, on my way to The Lowry Gallery and special 360° exhibition – very pleased that I’ve been able to see this and it was the right decision to take the train today.
Now cycling back along the tow bath and onto Manchester city centre – it’s only 6.30 but it’s already busy with folks going out for the night and I’m glad to make it the few miles south of the city to Alix’s who has kindly offered to put me up for the night.
Up about 5.30 am but takes me ages to get ready this morning, partly because I didn’t manage to get my phone and stuff charged last night but the laundry room is open and there are sockets I can use to get this done.
Finally on the road on the road for Gretna and the obligatory photo shoot at Gretna – feeling (ridiculously) guilty that I have jilted Bertie Bike and have Phil with me this time.
And then on to Carlisle.
Very slow and tired today – found a McDonalds for 2nd breakfast – had food with me but it’s cold and damp outside so I wanted somewhere I could sit inside in the warmth, use the toilet and charge my phone (again – using phone to navigate is a huge drain on the battery). I’ve missed breakfast – I’ve barely gone any distance and it’s already after 11am and I end up having a chicken wrap – there doesn’t seem to be any tables with sockets to charge my phone and that I can keep an eye on the bike at the same time -and the door to McDonalds is open so it’s not very warm – so I’ve not ticked many of my boxes but do have something to eat and use the toilet.
Now using cycle route 7 – lovely quiet scenic roads – enjoyed it for a while but hard work and I don’t feel as if I’m making a lot of progress so peel off and pick up the A6 and head through Penrith & Shap – much busier but still good and easier on the legs.
Before joining the A6 I came through “Unthank” – another place name I’d not heard of before – (stolen from the web) “Unthank” typically originates from the Old English word “unþanc,” meaning “without leave” or “without consent.” This often referred to land that was occupied or farmed without the permission of the landowner, effectively making the inhabitants squatters.
After the village of Shap but just before the highest point of the A6 I took a left turn and headed east to try and find a spot to pitch the tent – nothing looked suitable and now I’m in “I’m not supposed to wild camp England” I was feeling a bit more cautious but after a few more hilly miles (and the wind was picking up) I was glad to see signs for Moor House Farm Campsite. A hasty tent erection – making sure nothing got blown away – a lovely spot but little if any shelter from the wind. Shower and straight into tent to hide from the wind and hope that sleep will take over.
Up early and on the road by 6am. Grey and driech but in a nice cooling way. New roads for me in some nice rolling country side. Was aiming to get to get to Carlisle today but knew this was probably a bit too far and even more so having not got so far the night before. Put my ear bud in to help with navigation – never particularly like using them as they are not comfortable and only ever wear one at a time – right ear has a newish piercing which gets in the way of ear bud so left one goes in – progress is made but then I stop getting directions – whether by phone or ear bud it’s not the first time it’s cut out – but then sometime later I realise that I’ve lost the dam thing and having puffed up a hill and not sure when it’s come out I don’t go back to look for it and I’ve now become a horrible litterer of the countryside.
One minute I’m in rolling countryside and the next I’m in a very built up area but passing through this fantastic underpass.
Then past this very phallic mausoleum in Hamilton Park.
Need to push the bike on a steep hill through Chatelherault Country Park and it’s famous hunting lodge – hoping I get better on the hills before I reach the Swiss / Italian border.
I’ve been on cycle route 75 and now 74 – 74 I’ve used before – it’s a well used cycle route between Gretna and Glasgow – super direct and easy but boring as anything and not much to see on the way but I do get another picture of this cycling globe – this time with Phil rather than Bertie.
Feeling tired – def won’t be getting to Carlisle – not convinced I’ll even manage 60 miles – have a pit stop at a wee post office come shop come cafe in Abington and feasted on a large bakewell tart flapjack – finally something kicks in or the cycling moon and stars have lined up – no uphills, the wind is with me and my legs are feeling good and get another 30+ miles in before deciding I need to pitch the tent for a night. Was going to look for a wild camping spot but fancy a shower and could do with getting phone and tracker charged up. Remember that there’s a campsite I’ve stayed at before – Bruce’s Cave Campsite – so named as there is a cave where Robert The Bruce is said to have hidden – and I head there – it’s about 5 miles North West of Getna Green. Tired now and sun is going down- I want to get the tent up before it gets dark – I take the last right turn to the campsite and then get stopped as the barriers are down for the railway line level crossing and I wait and I wait and I wait – no sight or sound of a train coming and it starts to rain – I can actually see the entrance to the campsite but can’t get there – finally a train going north shoots past – yipee I think, I’m ready for a quick take off when the barriers go up but they DON’T!! – they still don’t – while I’m waiting Karen phones and we manage to have a conversation and a huge double rainbow comes out – finally a long goods train passes by but south this time and then barriers go up and finally get to pitch my tent for the night.
Fantastic much needed toasty shower – think I used more than my fair share of hot water but it was bliss – apart when I realised that I seem to have lost some of my skin on my right butt cheek – probably not more than a pin prick but felt huge when the water hit it!
101.4 miles
128.4 miles total / 1 wild camp / 1st campsite